Cape Lookout.

Kathy and I took a day trip to the coast today, which somehow seemed like a momentous thing. One, we have been crazy busy with school and work and rarely have full days off together, and two, we are way poor, consequently making the idea of even just a DAY trip somewhere seem impossible as of late. But, we have both been fully aware that it's been over a YEAR since we took a true trip to the coast. Upon further inspection of my records, we did actually take the quickest of jaunts to Nehalem Beach in June 2010, but this was a mission to take our old, dog-aggressive/dog-anxious dog to see the ocean. While this was indeed wonderful and fun, since we were so worried about the other carefree, free-running dogs on the beach, and  since we also don't like leaving him in the car, we pretty much drove to the beach, walked around for about fifteen minutes, and promptly drove back to Portland. We felt victorious that we had given Toby the chance to romp around in the sea (well, 'romp around' might be some liberal phrasing--he is, as I mentioned, old--but, really, he was excited, in Toby terms!), but still, I don't believe this counts as a real trip. 

My records further show that the last time we took some actual trips to the coast was back in the summer of 2009, when we took a few different friends who visited us that summer. 2009! For those who are not aware, it's now 2011. This is a sad state of affairs when the glorious (and yes, as was recently and tragically reaffirmed to the world, often times scary) Pacific Ocean, with a violently majestic rocky coastline, is less than two hours away. Indeed, the first couple of years we lived here, it seemed like we took trips to the coast all the time--a stay at a yurt here, a day trip there, here a state park, there a state park, everywhere a yurt yurt--but apparently now the responsibilities of Real Life keep putting us in stay-put-in-Portland strangleholds. Which is highly unfortunate, because I could immediately tell today how much even just a day away can really do for your mental and emotional health.

Anyway, geez, enough of this boring back story. I love the ocean! Who doesn't! Glad we got that covered!

One of the things about the Oregon Coast which makes it different from other coasts--say, in Southern California, or almost anywhere along the East Coast, with maybe the exception of Maine--is that in addition to it being rocky, it is cold. And rainy. Most days of the year. It is not a place you go to lay out on a blanket and get a tan. It is, however, very pretty to look at! Indeed, Oregon made a smart move early on by preserving almost the entirety of its coast (through the likes of gallant oldies such as Oswald West) for the good and enjoyment of its people, making most of the coastline remarkably undeveloped. In any case, much of trips to the coast are normally spent, at least for us, in the car--driving around and looking at the pretty stuff! Which is nice--and warm, and dry, it should be noted--but today I really wanted to actually walk around a bit. So we headed for Cape Lookout.

Here's the theme of the Cape Lookout hike: mud.

Luckily, we came prepared with an extra pair of crappy old sneakers and extra socks, and the trail doesn't start out too bad. It begins with a slight downward-sloping track with a steep descent towards the water to your left. You can just barely see the water through a beautiful, orderly arrangement of tall, skinny Sitka spruce trees covered in dainty seafoam colored moss, as seen above. You can also hear the ocean quite well, so you know that it's there, and you know right away you are quite high up. And then suddenly, just about a half mile or less into the trail, the trees thin out and the descent to your left is now so steep you can't see anything to your immediate left but the wide, wide blue ocean--and, oh, yeah, there it is! Spread wide open before you! And you are really high up! And already kind of far out from the shoreline--because you are, you know, on a cape! And the water looks really blue! And you really do not want to trip and fall anywhere remotely close to the left side of the trail!

We stood and stared at this spot for quite awhile. Pictures do not convey how immense the ocean felt at that moment.

Cape Lookout is also known for being one of the best places to see whales, especially during spring and fall when they're moving along the coast, and so while we stood at this spot feeling on top of the world--there were seagulls flying over the water way below us that looked like tiny ants!--I may have also been whining, "I want to see a whale! I want to see a whale! I want to see a whaaaaale!" Alas, we didn't. Later, I learned that the best place to actually see them is at the tip of the Cape, where the hike ends. Spoiler alert: We didn't make it to the tip. (Deal with it.)

After this point the trail veers away from cliff side vistas and dives more into lovely coastal rainforest, with the slope also heading more and more downhill. And more and more muddy. It was fun, and we were happy. Slopping around in the mud--especially with the knowledge that we had dry shoes and socks back in the car--felt kind of awesome, in the way that doing things six year olds really enjoy usually generally feels awesome. While the mud might be worse during this time of the year, I suspect the trail is never completely dry, since my guidebook informed me that Cape Lookout gets over 100 inches of rain per year.

However, the shoes we brought really were just worn out sneakers with little traction, and as the trail became steeper and more like a true continuous mudpit, and as it started to rain a little harder than just the pleasant drizzle we had dealt with earlier, we decided to turn back. There was a pleasant couple of older ladies following us through most of the mud and at one point when we were really starting to slip and slide one of them said, "Ohhh, be careful! Once a mother, always a mother!" So there you go Mom--don't worry, there are kind Oregonians looking out for me.

There are some things that I am beginning to really appreciate about slightly-rainy/wet hikes. Mainly, the contrast between the dark oozy mud of the trail and the bright, shiny green of the ferns/grasses/plants elsewhere is enhanced and made even more beautiful. You also start to differentiate between your different shades of mud: here, there was the rust colored stuff, and then the real dark rich stuff. Squish, squish, squoosh. If I knew more about geology, I would tell you what those different colors mean, but I don't. I just think noticing different shades of mud on the same trail is neat. I'm smart!

This is the second hike in as many attempts that Kathy and I haven't completed the full loop of, but I feel okay with it. We are still just starting to flex our hiking muscles. In all we hiked about two miles this trip, which isn't too shabby (okay, by outdoorsy Oregonian standards, it's pretty shabby). Also, in both cases, we had a dinner involving good beer ahead of us always in the back of our minds. So. You understand.

Lesson learned: I really should invest in real hiking books. Also, when tramping through mud, rolling up my jeans just once or twice is NOT enough.

Highlight: That awe-inspiring viewpoint, obviously. Also, spotting a bunch of white trilliums peeking up here and there almost every other step. And, making Kathy stand next to this thing.

Info: Located within Cape Lookout State Park off of Rt. 131 between Tillamook and Pacific City, also known as the Three Capes Scenic Route. There's also a more direct road connecting the park to Rt. 101, Sandlake Road. The entrance to the trailhead is well marked, but is different from the entrance to the park camping area. There are also trails leading down to the beach, and to the campsite. Dogs allowed but must be on leash. One portapotty at the parking lot. No permits required.

Post-hike chow-down: I highly recommend heading just a few miles south on 131 to Pacific City for a nice relaxing meal at the Pelican Pub & Brewery. It's right on the beach at Cape Kiwanda, and prices are in a good middle rage--not totally cheap, but not totally expensive, and overall way worth your buck. Hands down, this is one of my favorite places in Oregon. Open seven days a week; open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.