Here's a not-so-secret: I have a love affair with Oregon rivers. I met my #1 love, the Rogue, this summer in Southern Oregon, but after that, my #2 so far is the Deschutes. (This may or may not be influenced by the fact that I am also really in love with Deschutes beer.)
Kathy and I headed out to Deschutes State Park yesterday, on the Columbia River Gorge way out past The Dalles, to celebrate a few things: 1) our six year anniversary this week, and 2) the miracle of both having all day on Veteran's Day off in the midst of our crazy schedules. I truly am grateful and in awe of veterans, and thank them even more for allowing us one of the most perfect days ever. While the Deschutes is best known for traveling through the heart of Bend, a magical city in Central Oregon (where that wonderful beer also originates!), this state park is located much farther north, where the Deschutes empties into the mighty Columbia.
I love the Columbia River Gorge for so many reasons, and for the first year or two that I lived here jaw-dropping waterfalls occupied most of those reasons, but after exploring it more I'm in even more awe of its diversity. The hour-long drive from Portland to Hood River is one I could never tire of, even if it is on a big highway like I-84. Yeah, it's a highway, but it's one that's deliciously sandwiched between wide expanses of the Columbia on one side and towering green cliffs and hills on the other. On this Portland to Hood River expanse it is all about luscious green-ness, waterfalls and slabs of rock covered in moss and towering fir trees every which way you look, with hills constantly receding into varying shades of blues in the distance, dream-like.This section is home to the famous Multnomah Falls, among many, many others; a wonderfully twisty-turvy section of the historic Columbia River Highway, Route 30; and the stunning overlook spot, the Vista House at Crown Point.
And then you pass Hood River. And almost as soon as you drive out of city limits, it's like you're in a completely different landscape altogether.
The river is still there, wide and steady to your left, but there are less trees and less moss, less green altogether, more brown rolling hills. It's an arid, desert-y kind of feel, but not quite the desert, just...different. You've left the hippie-loving western side of the state, and are suddenly closer to the Wild Wild West. It's a difference you not just see, but you feel. As majestic as all the stuff before Hood River was, this landscape actually seems bigger, in a way, and you accordingly feel smaller. It's totally different but still totally the Gorge, and still totally amazingly beautiful. And yes, that was a lot of totally's. This is the way the crazy Oregon landscape makes me feel! You can practically see the dreamy stars in my eyes! Snap out of it, Jill!
The trail we embarked on (from the furthest parking lot of the park) is a narrow single track which hugs the river, which is wide and pretty peaceful at this conclusive juncture of its life. The trail is pretty flat and on-level with the river at first, with a spattering of sparse, spindly trees surrounding the river, the trail and you, and then slowly, increasingly makes its way to slightly higher ground, with the river slightly further below you and the trees--or any real vegetation at all--becoming even sparser. And everywhere, it is quiet, quiet. Every now and then you look back where you came from, and all you see in every direction are big, dusty, quiet hills.
Peaceful quiet is definitely the thing I remember most from this hike--we didn't see another soul the whole time we were out. Even though I-84 isn't too far from the start of the trail, even whirring traffic noises from that fade out pretty quickly, and it's just you, the birds, and the river. We eventually turned around to head back a little earlier than I anticipated (the trail keeps going for quite a ways along the river), because it was starting to get dark and also starting to rain a little, and unlike other well forested hikes I'm used to, there wasn't any real cover from the wetness out here. But it still felt good to stretch our legs a little, and to breathe some drier Central Oregon air. Central/Eastern Oregon, I want so much more of you! Oregon Rivers, you and I are not over yet!
Lesson learned: If I want to actually complete these hikes, we really have to start out earlier. And also come more prepared with snacks. Also, the farther out from Portland/cities you go, the less populated the trails will be. While this is nice in a way, it's also a reaffirmation for me that I shouldn't do these trails alone.
Highlight: The random, bright sprinklings of fall color (red bushes! yellow leaved trees! purple flowers!) mixed in with all the shades of brown.
Info: Heading east on I-84, Deschutes River State Park is located off of Exit 97, on Rt. 206. There are a few different trails in the park, including a wider one for bikers, but to get to the River Trail we took, you have to first walk through a small field at the end of the last parking area. Horses (yeah, horses!) allowed with reservation. Restrooms and picnic tables available near parking lot.
Post-hike chow-down: If you're heading back Portland-way after the hike, you should probably stop in Hood River for a meal at Full Sail Brewery, because their beer and food are delicious, and their brewpub is small and fun and, during the day, you can watch windsurfers on the Columbia while you eat. On this trip we were going to try and branch out and eat at the smaller Double Mountain Brewery, which is actually right around the corner, but it was crowded and no one helped us after we stood around confusedly for ten minutes, so we walked out. Which ended up being okay, because we remembered how much we completely love Full Sail, so it's never a bad option. But, still, Double Mountain also came recommended. Both are located on Columbia Street, Hood River (Double Mountain technically on the corner of Fourth); open daily for lunch and dinner. Full Sail also offers free brewery tours daily.
I love the Columbia River Gorge for so many reasons, and for the first year or two that I lived here jaw-dropping waterfalls occupied most of those reasons, but after exploring it more I'm in even more awe of its diversity. The hour-long drive from Portland to Hood River is one I could never tire of, even if it is on a big highway like I-84. Yeah, it's a highway, but it's one that's deliciously sandwiched between wide expanses of the Columbia on one side and towering green cliffs and hills on the other. On this Portland to Hood River expanse it is all about luscious green-ness, waterfalls and slabs of rock covered in moss and towering fir trees every which way you look, with hills constantly receding into varying shades of blues in the distance, dream-like.This section is home to the famous Multnomah Falls, among many, many others; a wonderfully twisty-turvy section of the historic Columbia River Highway, Route 30; and the stunning overlook spot, the Vista House at Crown Point.
And then you pass Hood River. And almost as soon as you drive out of city limits, it's like you're in a completely different landscape altogether.
The river is still there, wide and steady to your left, but there are less trees and less moss, less green altogether, more brown rolling hills. It's an arid, desert-y kind of feel, but not quite the desert, just...different. You've left the hippie-loving western side of the state, and are suddenly closer to the Wild Wild West. It's a difference you not just see, but you feel. As majestic as all the stuff before Hood River was, this landscape actually seems bigger, in a way, and you accordingly feel smaller. It's totally different but still totally the Gorge, and still totally amazingly beautiful. And yes, that was a lot of totally's. This is the way the crazy Oregon landscape makes me feel! You can practically see the dreamy stars in my eyes! Snap out of it, Jill!
The trail we embarked on (from the furthest parking lot of the park) is a narrow single track which hugs the river, which is wide and pretty peaceful at this conclusive juncture of its life. The trail is pretty flat and on-level with the river at first, with a spattering of sparse, spindly trees surrounding the river, the trail and you, and then slowly, increasingly makes its way to slightly higher ground, with the river slightly further below you and the trees--or any real vegetation at all--becoming even sparser. And everywhere, it is quiet, quiet. Every now and then you look back where you came from, and all you see in every direction are big, dusty, quiet hills.
Peaceful quiet is definitely the thing I remember most from this hike--we didn't see another soul the whole time we were out. Even though I-84 isn't too far from the start of the trail, even whirring traffic noises from that fade out pretty quickly, and it's just you, the birds, and the river. We eventually turned around to head back a little earlier than I anticipated (the trail keeps going for quite a ways along the river), because it was starting to get dark and also starting to rain a little, and unlike other well forested hikes I'm used to, there wasn't any real cover from the wetness out here. But it still felt good to stretch our legs a little, and to breathe some drier Central Oregon air. Central/Eastern Oregon, I want so much more of you! Oregon Rivers, you and I are not over yet!
Lesson learned: If I want to actually complete these hikes, we really have to start out earlier. And also come more prepared with snacks. Also, the farther out from Portland/cities you go, the less populated the trails will be. While this is nice in a way, it's also a reaffirmation for me that I shouldn't do these trails alone.
Highlight: The random, bright sprinklings of fall color (red bushes! yellow leaved trees! purple flowers!) mixed in with all the shades of brown.
Info: Heading east on I-84, Deschutes River State Park is located off of Exit 97, on Rt. 206. There are a few different trails in the park, including a wider one for bikers, but to get to the River Trail we took, you have to first walk through a small field at the end of the last parking area. Horses (yeah, horses!) allowed with reservation. Restrooms and picnic tables available near parking lot.
Post-hike chow-down: If you're heading back Portland-way after the hike, you should probably stop in Hood River for a meal at Full Sail Brewery, because their beer and food are delicious, and their brewpub is small and fun and, during the day, you can watch windsurfers on the Columbia while you eat. On this trip we were going to try and branch out and eat at the smaller Double Mountain Brewery, which is actually right around the corner, but it was crowded and no one helped us after we stood around confusedly for ten minutes, so we walked out. Which ended up being okay, because we remembered how much we completely love Full Sail, so it's never a bad option. But, still, Double Mountain also came recommended. Both are located on Columbia Street, Hood River (Double Mountain technically on the corner of Fourth); open daily for lunch and dinner. Full Sail also offers free brewery tours daily.
